You've heard that a wind mitigation inspection can save you hundreds — sometimes over a thousand dollars — on your Florida homeowner's insurance premium. But when the inspector shows up, what are they actually doing for those 45 to 90 minutes? What are they looking at, measuring, and photographing? And more importantly, which findings put money back in your pocket? If you've ever wondered what goes on behind the scenes of a wind mitigation inspection, this article walks you through it in plain English.
Why Wind Mitigation Inspections Exist in Florida
Florida law requires insurance carriers to offer premium discounts to homeowners whose properties have features that help them withstand hurricane-force winds. The inspection produces a standardized form — the OIR-B1-1802, often called the "wind mit form" — that your insurance carrier uses to calculate exactly how much of a discount you qualify for. The inspector's job is to document your home's actual construction features honestly and accurately. That documentation is then handed to your insurer; the insurer decides the discount. The inspector does not negotiate with your carrier or adjust your claim — that's the job of a licensed insurance agent or, if there's a dispute, a licensed public adjuster.
A wind mitigation inspection is about evidence. The inspector finds and documents what's there. Your insurer does the math. The better your home is built to resist wind, the bigger your potential discount.
The Seven Things a Wind Mitigation Inspector Evaluates
The OIR-B1-1802 form has specific categories, and inspectors work through each one methodically. Here's what each category means for your home:
1. Building Code — When Was Your Home Built?
Homes built after the Florida Building Code took effect (generally after March 1, 2002, and especially after the 2004–2005 hurricane seasons) were constructed to stricter wind-resistance standards. If your home was permitted after that period, it may automatically qualify for credits in several categories. The inspector will look at your permit date or building records to confirm this.
2. Roof Covering — What Material Is on Your Roof?
The inspector documents the type of roofing material — asphalt shingles, metal, tile, or other — and whether it meets the Florida Building Code's wind-resistance rating. A roof covering that meets or exceeds the code standard can earn a credit. This is also where the age and condition of your roof matter: an older roof that no longer meets current standards may not qualify.
3. Roof Deck Attachment — How Is the Plywood Nailed Down?
This is one of the most important — and most misunderstood — categories. The inspector will access your attic and physically examine how the roof deck (typically plywood or OSB) is fastened to the rafters or trusses beneath it. They're looking at:
- The size of the nails (6d vs. 8d — larger is better)
- The spacing of the nails (6 inches on center vs. 6/12 pattern)
- The thickness of the decking material
Better nail patterns mean the deck is less likely to peel away in a storm. This single category can have a significant impact on your discount. The inspector will photograph the decking and measure nail spacing directly — this is not guesswork.
4. Roof-to-Wall Connection — How Is the Roof Attached to the House?
This is arguably the most critical structural factor in a hurricane. If the roof separates from the walls, the entire structure is compromised. The inspector looks at the type of connector used where the rafters or trusses meet the top of your walls. The categories, from weakest to strongest, are:
- Toe nails — nails driven at an angle; the weakest connection
- Clips — a metal strap wrapping one side of the truss
- Single wraps — a metal strap wrapping around and nailed on both sides
- Double wraps — two straps, one on each side
- Structural anchors (clips or wraps with bolts) — the strongest option
Homes with clips or wraps — common in post-2002 construction — typically earn meaningful discounts. The inspector photographs these connections in the attic.
5. Roof Shape — Hip, Gable, or Flat?
A hip roof (where all four sides slope downward to the walls) performs significantly better in high winds than a gable roof (the classic triangular end). The inspector measures the roof geometry and calculates what percentage of the perimeter is hip-shaped. A "fully hip" roof — where 90% or more of the perimeter is hip — earns the best credit. If you have a gable end, the inspector will also check whether it has bracing, which can partially offset the disadvantage.
6. Wall Construction — What Are Your Walls Made Of?
Concrete block (CBS — concrete block structure) construction is the Florida standard and performs well in wind events. Wood-frame homes may receive different credits. The inspector identifies your wall type from visible construction details, permits, or attic access.
7. Opening Protection — Windows, Doors, and Garage Doors
This is where impact windows, hurricane shutters, and reinforced garage doors come into play. The inspector evaluates every opening — windows, entry doors, sliding glass doors, skylights, and the garage door — and determines whether each one has rated wind-borne debris protection. To earn the highest credit, all openings must be protected. A single unprotected window can drop you from the top tier to a lower one. The inspector will look for product approval numbers on shutters and windows to verify they meet Florida's standards.
If you've invested in impact windows or shutters but aren't sure whether they're properly documented, a professional wind mitigation inspection is the best way to find out — and to make sure your insurer is giving you every credit you've earned.
What the Inspector Does NOT Do
It's worth being clear about the boundaries of the inspection:
- The inspector does not decide your premium — that's your insurer's job
- The inspector does not file or adjust insurance claims
- The inspector does not guarantee a specific dollar savings
- The inspector does not repair anything found during the inspection
If your carrier disputes the findings, denies a discount you believe you've earned, or if you're navigating a claim, those conversations belong with your licensed insurance agent or a licensed public adjuster — not your inspector.
How Long Does It Take and What Do You Get?
Most wind mitigation inspections take between 45 minutes and 90 minutes depending on the size and complexity of your home. Attic access is required, so make sure it's clear before the inspector arrives. After the inspection, you'll receive the completed OIR-B1-1802 form with photographs — the document you submit directly to your insurance carrier or agent. Many homeowners see their insurer apply discounts within days of submitting the form.
Wind mitigation reports are typically valid for five years, though some carriers may request a more recent one. If your home has had significant improvements — new roof, impact windows, hurricane straps added — it's worth getting a fresh inspection even if your current report hasn't expired.
Ready to Find Out What Your Home Qualifies For?
If you're paying full price on your Florida homeowner's insurance and you've never had a wind mitigation inspection, there's a real chance you're leaving money on the table. The inspection is straightforward, the cost is modest, and the potential savings can pay for it many times over in the first year alone.
I'm Calvin Johnson, licensed Florida Home Inspector (License #HI2622) and owner of Vcita Home Inspection & Service LLC, serving Fort Pierce and the Treasure Coast. If you'd like to schedule your wind mitigation inspection or just have questions about what to expect, reach out and I'm happy to talk it through — no pressure, no jargon.